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Topic: How-To Tips

Old Garden

Photo by Steve Asbell

Read "The Art of Moving a Garden: Part 1" here.

This article could just as well be called 'The Art of Starting a Garden.' The only difference is that we're operating under the assumption that you already have plants from another garden to plant. I just moved a garden of my own and it really was a lot like starting over, with new soil, new sunlight and a whole new look. Whether it's your first garden, second or eleventh, we're going to discuss planning, amending and planting your way to the best garden you've ever had.

Planning

If you have transplants ready, dig up a patch that you plan on planting and add the new plants, just to keep them healthy while you plan and dig new beds. You can always relocate them before they get too used to their temporary homes.

Your new garden is going to be completely different from the last one. It might have sandy soil, more shade or even a colder climate, but as long as you identify these differences, you're golden. You could get a soil test from the local extension office and buy a rain guage, but first just ask your neighbors about their gardens. Take a mental note of which plants are struggling and which ones thrive. Over the course of a day, observe which parts of your yard receive the most sun or shade.

Another photo of the old garden

Photo by Steve Asbell

Now get out a pen and pad of paper and brainstorm. Visualize the garden of your dreams and develop an action plan. You don't have to plant the garden all at once, so plan out phases so that you can tackle you goals one chunk at a time. For example; if you want to replace the front lawn, start making beds along the house and under trees for phase one. For phase two, extend the beds with a low maintenance groundcover like liriope to replace some of the lawn. Then as you're able, keep adding the groundcover until no lawn remains.

Amending

Many new homes are built on sandy 'fill dirt' with little organic matter on which plants can thrive. Since you probably don't have your own compost yet, buy topsoil or composted manure from the garden center and heap on as much as you can. Mulch will also help retain moisture and keep the soil from washing or blowing away. Another easy fix is to use raised beds to keep the soil in place and allow for easier gardening, especially if the soil is filled with rocks or clay.

Some older gardens have big thirsty trees whose root systems allow little room for planting. Small amounts of soil can be added to support plants that tolerate dry shade (like some bulbs and ferns) but if you add too much soil you'll suffocate the tree's roots. Of course, you could always start from scratch and have the tree removed by a specialist.

Planting

Even if you already have plants to work with, you'll probably need to take a trip or two to the garden center to match the look and conditions of your new garden. Choose plants that not only appeal to your style, but perform well in your new conditions. An affordable way to fill the space is to use bulbs and spreading groundcovers. They don't cost a lot, but they go a long way!

New Garden-It takes a while to grow in!

Photo by Steve Asbell

When adding new plants to the soil, dig deeper and wider than the rootball of the plant so that the new roots can easily spread and establish. Fill the hole back in with loose soil so that the crown (where the stem meets the ground) is even with the soil. Fill the hole back in with soil and water thoroughly to let the soil settle in around the roots.

A common mistake is to plant 'drought tolerant' plants in the ground and forget about them until they die of drought. Just because they are drought tolerant when established does not mean that they can handle it as new transplants! Keep the soil moist and water every other day until the plant has had time to put down deep roots. Then you can let them do their thing.

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Greenland Garden of the Week!

Aziem K.